Turkey
is a revelation. It needs to be visited time and again in order to capture its full flavor. Turkey is not just Istanbul. Founded in 1923, after the collapse of the 623-year
Ottoman Empire, by Mustafa
Kemal Pasha, known as Ataturk or father of the Turks, it is a country of beaches, mountains and lakes and home to historical sites such as Ephesus and Troy. Before the Ottomans,
the Hittite and Byzantine civilizations colonized Turkey. As a result, Turkish
heritage buildings have an aesthetic blend of traditional Byzantine elements
along with Islamic styles and influences. In addition, modern Turkey located as
it is between two continents, has the distinction of combining the feel of
Europe with the flavour of Asia. The most visual aspect of this is seen in the
juxtaposition of the ancient structures with modern skyscrapers.
Istanbul’s
topography is
dotted with mosques in every hue. There are large ones and small, decorated
ones and plain, famous mosques and lesser known ones. For the millions of
visitors who pour into Istanbul, there is one destination: over the Golden
Horn, across the Galata bridge and into the hum of Sultanahmet.
We trudged every inch of Sultanahmet, the heart of cultural Istanbul.Located
just off the Hippodrome where obelisks and Byzantine monuments evoke memories
of chariot races and festivities, the Sultanahmet mosque or Blue mosque, with its six minarets, is
said to rival none other than the mosque in Mecca. The mosque derives its name
from the blue Iznik tiles which are predominant and which add to its serene
appeal. It is claimed that some of the stone masons of the Blue mosque, later
helped build the Taj Mahal. Stepping out of the mosque into the harsh August
sun, one cannot help but be accosted by water sellers. These entrepreneurs do a
roaring business. A landscaped path of fountains and flowers leads to the Hagia Sophia (or Aya Sofya in Turkish)
museum. Touted as the eight wonder of the world, this 1400-year old structure
was originally commissioned by Justinian as a church. The interior is meant to
reflect Heaven on Earth. Its marbled walls, intricate mosaics and Christian
panels reflect the magnificence of the Byzantine times.
A
few metres away, overlooking the Marmara Sea, is the Topkapi Sarayi or palace. A museum
today, this palace was the principal residence of the Ottoman rulers. It was
built as a stone version of their previous nomadic lifestyle. The various
pavilions were like their tents and had different functions. One of the most
popular buildings to visit is the harem, a testament to the Ottoman love of
rich furnishings and opulence. The Topkapi dagger, made famous in the movie of
the same name, along with bejewelled thrones, cribs, utensils and jewellery is
on display in the treasury. Sultanahmet is not just about mosques, churches and
palace museums. Yerabatan or the
Basilica cistern is a unique underwater tank built by Justinian and unknown to
the Ottomans. It was discovered purely by accident centuries later when people
began drilling holes in their basements and fishing. There are 336 columns,
some richly decorated like the pillar resting on a base of Goddess Medusa’s
head. A short walk away is the world’s largest indoor shopping arcade: the Grand
bazaar. It is like a maze and it is not impossible to get lost weaving in
and out of the lanes. The bazaar is crammed with stalls selling colourful
kilims, turkish evil eye jewellery, fake designer bags, clothes and shoes.
Cafes selling refreshing Turkish tea and coffee are much in demand.
While
the days are filled drinking in the sights or taking a cruise down the
Bosphorus, the evenings can be spent drinking refreshing lemonade by the
Bosphorus in Ortakoy or shopping at one of the new and trendy malls like Akmerkez. For
those who enjoy dancing, a night at Anjelique is a must. A holiday
is incomplete without a culinary treat. It could be sipping a glass of bubby at
Ulus
29, with its stunning view of Asian Istanbul or watching the sun cast its
golden glow across the Marmara while enjoying a fusion meal at Lokanta Nu Teras. Equally memorable were
the mezze, kebabs and paynir we ate on the Asian side as we saw butterfly like
windsurfers streaking across the sea.
I
enjoyed a pleasant morning visiting the Istanbul Modern museum though
unfortunately I missed visiting The Museum of
Innocence even though I read the book by Turkey’s famous author, Orhan Pamuk.
There
are many beautiful hotels like the Four Seasons on the Bosphorus
or the Ciragan
Palace Kempinski. In a slightly less expensive bracket is the Hilton.
I know I will go back, if for nothing
then to fulfil my desire to visit the
the
Suleymaniye
mosque and the Dolmabache Palace
in Istanbul.
And
then it was adieu to the Sea of Marmara and the snaking Bosphorus and bonjour
to the azure waters of the Aegean. The Kempinski in
Bodrum, sits serenely in Barbaros Bay, far away from prying eyes and is a great
way to relax after scurrying around in Istanbul. Turkey has much to offer in
terms of places of interest apart from the the sights and sounds of Istanbul.
The world heritage site of Cappadocia
is a must see and viewing the volcanic eruptions above ground from a hot air
balloon is a one of its kind experience. Visiting Ephesus is a history lover’s delight.
Traipsing through the ancient ruins and imagining how it must have been in
those ancient times, squatting on the marble toilets, wandering through the
library ruins and contemplating in the amphi theatre is intoxicating. It was
difficult to drag myself away. And it was a day trip from Bodrum with a visit
to a Turkish kilim factory thrown into the mix too.
If
possible, catch a twirl by the whirling dervishes. They
are just as mesmerizing as the country. Turkey is truly a delight.
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