Sunday, 17 July 2016

Kwaheri Kenya....till we meet again

Africa: Wild, beautiful, addictive. Each time I visit this continent I am hooked; whether it is on safari, on a cultural visit, relaxing at the beach or touring the wine country. And I have barely made an indent into the country as yet.

One of my more frequently visited African countries is Kenya. While family roots may have stared the initial visits, it is the country itself that beckons me time and again, right from that first jambo to the final kwaheri.

Here is my take on how to break up seven days in Kenya. Spend three magical days on safari, two hectic days in Nairobi and two relaxing days in Mombasa. I tend to skip Nairobi and spend as much time as possible on safari but this is totally a personal choice. Nairobi is the point of entry and for all those who need visas, they are easy to acquire at Jomo Kenyatta International Airport for a sum of $50. Online visas can be got at https://kenya.travisa.com.

For those who cannot stay without any connection, sim cards are available at the airport. The most prevalent network is safaraicom followed by airtel. But regardless of who you get, more often than not, signals are hard to get while on safari. It is a blessing if you ask me, finally a chance to truly switch off and commune with nature.

My itchiness generally means I transfer to Wilson airport immediately to leave for safari as soon as possible. Air Kenya and Safarilink flights to the Mara leave from the smaller airport. Mombasa Air is another charter airline operating flights. It is preferable to arrange your transfer to prevent being ripped off by taxi operators. I like to use Sawa Sawa to arrange my visit. They are professional and efficient. I have used them for small and large holidays and they cater it perfectly, to suit my requirements, with a personal touch thrown in. And with a word that means ok ok, how can you go wrong? They agree and implement all requests. Another great way to enjoy safari is using Gamewatcher safaris. This eco-friendly organization operates within the Olare orok Mara conservancy where their aim is to give back to the community and do everything possible to become one with the environment rather than harm the ecosystem. Since it borders the Masai Mara game reserve, the sightings of animals are abundant. I actually like that the conservancy facilitates off trail game drives with strict viewing rules unlike the Mara where fifteen or twenty vehicles descend and mar a sighting. But I get ahead of myself.

There are six different airports servicing the Mara ecosystem depending on which lodge you choose. I have generally flown into Keekorok and Olkiombo. Since these are charter flights, you could make as many as six different stops before arriving at your final destination.  

The excitement begins as you fly above the Mara. From the sky itself I start my spotting and by the time we taxi to a halt on the airstrip, I have spotted giraffes, if I am lucky some majestic elephanta and as I land, some skittish gazelle too. I have stayed at different camps but here are a few I recommend. For my fiftieth, the festivities began at Keekorok where the Sarova Mara welcomed us with a champagne reception. This is also a great camp for Indian vegetarinas since they offer a full Indian menu every day and are also happy to cook something off the menu for you, like khichdi. There was a time I landed at Jomo Kenyatta and my flight from Wilson was later in the afternoon. Instead of heading off to the city, I went to the Porini tented camps in the Nairobi Safari park and started my safari with an instant sighting of mating lions, within half an hour of landing. For people on business in Nairobi and with not much time to spare, this park is a great half way measure to getting the thrill of safari. There is too much car traffic crossing from one part of Nairobi to the next and I personally prefer to get my fix in the Mara. I still remember being kept awake at Porini Mara by the grunting of the hippos and even peeping out a few times thinking they must have wandered onto my porch. Despite the night disturbances, I was fresh and alert before my 5.30am wake-up call and ready to drive to Porini lion meandering along the way, taking in sights that were being offered to my thirsty eyes. One of the highlights of my stay at Olonana, was the mad dash post-closing hours in order to escape the late departure fines. We enjoyed the sun setting over the Oloololo escarpment and the sudden darkness of Africa as we drove, sans headlights, just listening to the sounds of night settling into the plain. Another highlight at Olonana was planting a tree and ensuring the continuance of the Mara ecosystem that is subject to rampant deforestation. If you happen to stay at the Mara Serena, you need not fear the stern authority of the Park authorities since it is one of the few lodges located right inside the Mara. For those who stay at Governors, hot air ballooning is a must. Others need to travel some distance in order to make the early morning departure. It is pricey but for those with the means, it is a great way of getting another look at the Mara reserve. I personally did not want to wake up early in the morning and pay a steep price for the balloon safari. Flying in and out of the Mara gives me just as much of a thrill. The magic of the Mara never fails to captivate and leaving is a wrench for me. Deep inside my median temporal lobe, I carry with me my memories and when I am far away from the Mara, I reach inside and luxuriate in the comfort they provide as I once again live out the crocodile killing the gazelle as it tries to cross the Mara river and the slow spread of red coloring the river. Or subconsciously urging the small-brained wilde beast to make the crossing after hours of deliberation. Once the decision is made, usually because of a bold giraffe or a daredevil gazelle, the surge and the sight is one that never fails to thrill. I remember trying to match up to the handsome Masai warriors as they jump high to reach the sky. And that sky! Sometimes when I struggle to wake up in the mornings, I remember how effortlessly I jump out of bed in the Mara because the sight of the orange sky staining the acacia trees never fails to captivate me. Sometimes I just remember the colors of my favoritie bird, the roller, as it perches on a thorny bush and then suddenly unleashes a brilliant colored palette as it spreads its wings and flies into the blue Mara sky.  And departing into those blue skies, I know I will be back so I blink back my tears and look onward to Nairobi. 
 
 Not far from Wilson airport is Carnivore, a must visit restaurant for hard core flesh-eaters. There was a time they served exotic meat but with the curb on poaching and in protecting the wildlife, they only serve meat of animals that are not in danger of extinction. Driving in Nairobi is a nightmare and the traffic can be utterly frustrating. It is important to watch your belongings because it has not been unheard to hear of people snatching valuables from open car windows. 

A must visit in Kenya the museum dedicated to Karen Blixen, the author of ‘Out of Africa’. It is located in an affluent suburb, Karen, believed to be named after Blixen. Enjoy a meal at some well renowned Karen restaurans such as Tamarind and  Tamambo.  The giraffe manor appeals to many a tourists. Parts of the movie ‘Out of Africa’ was shot here and it is possible to feed giraffes. It is also not unusual to see giraffes peeping in as you enjoy your morning tea or your evening sundowner. The David Sheldrick wildlife trust run elephant orphanage is a great way to learn more about the movement to help Africa’s most endangered animals and not just see this up close and personal, but also be a part of the community facilitating this research and effort, by being a donor. A short drive out of Nairobi and into the rift valley is the home of Joy Adamson, the author of Born Free. The Elsamere conservation centre brings to mind days of yore and though the meal is pretty basic and the place is not at the upper end of luxury, it is a great insight into life during Adamson’s days as well as a scenic look at the Grand Rift Valley.

Talking about old world and The Sarova Stanley in Nairobi catapults you into a forgotten era. One of the newer hotels to consider is The Kempinski or for a modern touch, try the Sankara or Tribe.  For a special meal, go all out and try Talisman with the intriguing menus and amazing ambience. Seven is a great seafood place fast acquiring a cult status. If you want something oriental, try Zen Garden for a meal set in lush surroundings with  friendly staff. With limited time, the top two shopping destinations are The Village market and the Masai market. Those tired bones will get a respite with a dose of espresso at Java House

And then after an action packed couple of days in Nairobi, head out once again to blissful Mombasa. Unlike other beach resrts, Mombasa will feel more primitive. There is not too much to do and the beach is actually rocky and unenticing. The water has been cold each time I visited. But a sea-side resort is always the best way to end a holiday and Mombasa does allow you to wind down and process the days of fun and adventure. If you are still in an explorative mood, check out the historic Mombasa with a visit to the Lighthouse to eat mogo chips and Old town for some last minute shopping and photography. I enjoy relaxing at my hotel. Try out the Whitesands or Serena, though there are plenty of hotels to suit every budget type.


As you finally fly out, you will have developed a disease particular to Kenya - an infectious disease you will carry in your system for a lifetime - the hankering to go back because Kenya infects you and once bitten, there is no cure except to return again and again for a dose of chui, twiga, simba, tembo, duma and the rest. Kwaheri Kenya until we meet again.  















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