Africa: Wild, beautiful, addictive. Each time I visit this
continent I am hooked; whether it is on safari, on a cultural visit, relaxing
at the beach or touring the wine country. And I have barely made an indent into
the country as yet.
One of my more frequently visited African countries is
Kenya. While family roots may have stared the initial visits, it is the country
itself that beckons me time and again, right from that first jambo to the final
kwaheri.
Here is my take on how to break up seven days in Kenya. Spend
three magical days on safari, two hectic days in Nairobi and two relaxing days
in Mombasa. I tend to skip Nairobi and spend as much time as possible on safari
but this is totally a personal choice. Nairobi is the point of entry and for
all those who need visas, they are easy to acquire at Jomo Kenyatta International Airport for a sum of
$50. Online visas can be got at https://kenya.travisa.com.
For those who cannot stay without any connection, sim cards
are available at the airport. The most prevalent network is safaraicom followed
by airtel. But regardless of who you get, more often than not, signals are hard
to get while on safari. It is a blessing if you ask me, finally a chance to
truly switch off and commune with nature.
My itchiness generally means I transfer to Wilson airport
immediately to leave for safari as soon as possible. Air Kenya and Safarilink flights to the Mara leave
from the smaller airport. Mombasa Air
is another charter airline operating flights. It is preferable to arrange your
transfer to prevent being ripped off by taxi operators. I like to use Sawa Sawa to arrange my visit. They
are professional and efficient. I have used them for small and large holidays
and they cater it perfectly, to suit my requirements, with a personal touch
thrown in. And with a word that means ok ok, how can you go wrong? They agree
and implement all requests. Another great way to enjoy safari is using Gamewatcher safaris. This eco-friendly
organization operates within the Olare
orok Mara conservancy where their aim is to give back to the community and
do everything possible to become one with the environment rather than harm the
ecosystem. Since it borders the Masai Mara
game reserve, the sightings of animals are abundant. I actually like that the
conservancy facilitates off trail game drives with strict viewing rules unlike the
Mara where fifteen or twenty vehicles descend and mar a sighting. But I get
ahead of myself.
There are six different airports servicing the Mara
ecosystem depending on which lodge you choose. I have generally flown into Keekorok and Olkiombo.
Since these are charter flights, you could make as many as six different stops
before arriving at your final destination.
The excitement begins as you fly above the Mara. From the
sky itself I start my spotting and by the time we taxi to a halt on the
airstrip, I have spotted giraffes, if I am lucky some majestic elephanta and as
I land, some skittish gazelle too. I have stayed at different camps but here
are a few I recommend. For my fiftieth, the festivities began at Keekorok where
the Sarova Mara welcomed
us with a champagne reception. This is also a great camp for Indian vegetarinas
since they offer a full Indian menu every day and are also happy to cook
something off the menu for you, like khichdi. There was a time I landed at Jomo
Kenyatta and my flight from Wilson was later in the afternoon. Instead of
heading off to the city, I went to the Porini tented camps
in the Nairobi Safari park and started my safari with an instant sighting of
mating lions, within half an hour of landing. For people on business in Nairobi
and with not much time to spare, this park is a great half way measure to
getting the thrill of safari. There is too much car traffic crossing from one
part of Nairobi to the next and I personally prefer to get my fix in the Mara. I
still remember being kept awake at Porini Mara
by the grunting of the hippos and even peeping out a few times thinking they
must have wandered onto my porch. Despite the night disturbances, I was fresh and
alert before my 5.30am wake-up call and ready to drive to Porini lion meandering
along the way, taking in sights that were being offered to my thirsty eyes. One
of the highlights of my stay at Olonana, was
the mad dash post-closing hours in order to escape the late departure fines. We
enjoyed the sun setting over the Oloololo escarpment and the sudden darkness of
Africa as we drove, sans headlights, just listening to the sounds of night
settling into the plain. Another highlight at Olonana was planting
a tree and ensuring the continuance of the Mara ecosystem that is subject
to rampant deforestation. If you happen to stay at the Mara Serena,
you need not fear the stern authority of the Park authorities since it is one
of the few lodges located right inside the Mara. For those who stay at Governors,
hot air ballooning is a must. Others need to travel some distance in order
to make the early morning departure. It is pricey but for those with the means,
it is a great way of getting another look at the Mara reserve. I personally did
not want to wake up early in the morning and pay a steep price for the balloon
safari. Flying in and out of the Mara gives me just as much of a thrill. The
magic of the Mara never fails to captivate and leaving is a wrench for me. Deep
inside my median temporal lobe, I carry with me my memories and when I am far
away from the Mara, I reach inside and luxuriate in the comfort they provide as
I once again live out the crocodile killing the gazelle as it tries to cross the
Mara river and the slow spread of red coloring the river. Or subconsciously urging the small-brained wilde beast to make the
crossing after hours of deliberation. Once the decision is made, usually because of a bold giraffe
or a daredevil gazelle, the surge and the sight is one that never fails to
thrill. I remember trying to
match up to the handsome Masai warriors as they jump high to reach the sky. And
that sky! Sometimes when I struggle to wake up in the mornings, I remember
how effortlessly I jump out of bed in the Mara because the sight of the orange
sky staining the acacia trees never fails to captivate me. Sometimes
I just remember the colors of my favoritie bird, the roller, as it
perches on a thorny bush and then suddenly unleashes a brilliant colored
palette as it spreads its wings and flies into the blue Mara sky. And departing into those blue skies, I know I
will be back so I blink back my tears and look onward to Nairobi.
Not far from Wilson airport is Carnivore, a must visit restaurant for hard core flesh-eaters. There was a time they served exotic meat but with the curb on poaching and in protecting the wildlife, they only serve meat of animals that are not in danger of extinction. Driving in Nairobi is a nightmare and the traffic can be utterly frustrating. It is important to watch your belongings because it has not been unheard to hear of people snatching valuables from open car windows.
A must visit in Kenya the museum dedicated
to Karen Blixen, the author of ‘Out of Africa’. It is located in an affluent
suburb, Karen, believed to be named after Blixen. Enjoy a meal at some well
renowned Karen restaurans such as Tamarind
and Tamambo. The giraffe
manor appeals to many a tourists. Parts of the movie ‘Out of Africa’ was shot
here and it is possible to feed giraffes. It is also not unusual to see
giraffes peeping in as you enjoy your morning tea or your evening sundowner. The
David Sheldrick wildlife trust run elephant
orphanage is a great way to learn more about the movement to help Africa’s
most endangered animals and not just see this up close and personal, but also be
a part of the community facilitating this research and effort, by being a
donor. A short drive out of Nairobi and into the rift valley is the home of Joy
Adamson, the author of Born Free. The Elsamere
conservation centre brings to mind days of yore and though the meal is
pretty basic and the place is not at the upper end of luxury, it is a great
insight into life during Adamson’s days as well as a scenic look at the Grand Rift Valley.
Talking about old world and The Sarova Stanley in
Nairobi catapults you into a forgotten era. One of the newer hotels to consider
is The
Kempinski or for a modern touch, try the Sankara
or Tribe. For a special meal, go all out and try Talisman with the
intriguing menus and amazing ambience. Seven
is a great seafood place fast acquiring a cult status. If you want something
oriental, try Zen Garden for a meal
set in lush surroundings with friendly
staff. With limited time, the top two shopping destinations are The Village market and the Masai
market. Those tired bones will get a respite with a dose of espresso at Java House.
And then after an action packed couple of days in Nairobi, head out once again to blissful Mombasa. Unlike other beach resrts, Mombasa will feel more primitive. There is not too much to do and the beach is actually rocky and unenticing. The water has been cold each time I visited. But a sea-side resort is always the best way to end a holiday and Mombasa does allow you to wind down and process the days of fun and adventure. If you are still in an explorative mood, check out the historic Mombasa with a visit to the Lighthouse to eat mogo chips and Old town for some last minute shopping and photography. I enjoy relaxing at my hotel. Try out the Whitesands or Serena, though there are plenty of hotels to suit every budget type.
As you finally fly out, you will have developed a disease
particular to Kenya - an infectious disease you will carry in your system for a
lifetime - the hankering to go back because Kenya
infects you and once bitten, there is no cure except to return again and again for
a dose of chui, twiga, simba, tembo, duma and the rest. Kwaheri Kenya until
we meet again.
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