"Sure I love safaris but lets try something different this time," declared my 22-year old. "Lets go on a gorilla trek." And just like that it was decided. A friend with business interests in Uganda put us in touch with an agent who helped plan our trip. There are things I would have done differently and based on that experience, here is my quick guide to a week in Uganda.
There are no direct flights to Uganda so one of the best ways is via Nairobi. If you have time, divide your safari experience between the two countries. Check out the Ugandan gorillas before hopping across to Kenya for your ultimate safari experience. If not, Uganda will have to do but then temper your expectation.
We flew into Entebbe and stayed overnight at 2 Friends Beach hotel. Located right by Lake Victoria, it is basic but clean and the food is decent. If you want a more upmarket hotel, some other options could be Lake heights hotel, Laico Lake Victoria hotel or The Boma hotel. However, keep in mind the main reason to be in Uganda is to see the gorillas so airport access was paramount for us. We took a charter flight to Kisoro and then drove to Clouds Lodge. It is a delightful place, and evocative of an untouched Africa with lush greenery, dense clouds within touching distance and mysterious forest all around. The lodge greets customers with typical African hospitality. The smiling faces with sparkling white teeth instantly make you relax and give in to the pampering and nurturing. If possible, go on the mini trek with your hotel guide to prepare you for the next day because no matter how fit you are and how avid a trekker, nothing, absolutely nothing can prepare you for a trek to the gorillas.
Physically it is the most difficult thing I have ever done. The trek starts at Bwindi Impenetrable Forest. One key is to take along as many guides/ porters as possible. Young people can manage with one between three or four, but if you are older, then one per person is a must. Being young and adventurous, our children scrambled along on their own. Despite being the adventurous type myself, I was grateful I could hang on to my porter's hand. Nothing I can say is enough to warn you about the intensity of the climb. One of our group actually needed a palanquin to come down because she twisted her ankle. At times there is no path and at times it is so treacherous, you literally feel your life is in your hands.
But then you see the gorillas and everything is forgiven. However, a word of caution. The sighting of gorilla differs from group to group. Some people get lucky and see the entire family frolicking on the ground and can sit among them and enjoy their shenanigans. But some have to strain to get a glimpse of them in between the foliage. And since the trek down will take time, the actual time spent with the gorillas never feels enough. But you do see them. In the wild. And yes, they are endangered.
The body aches and groans when you return but it is worth every bit of the agony to have spent some time with these magnificent cousins. While returning from Bwindi, do not allow your travel guide to convince you to travel by road. Instead return by charter. There are no restaurants on the way and the food leaves much to be desired. The roads are a torture and you return to Entebbe, exhausted and irritable.
If you care to stay on in Uganda, you can go on safari. Murchison Falls National Park is probably your best bet but it is a long distance from Kampala and Entebbe and as mentioned, the roads in Uganda are not great. Charter flights are a possibility but it is at the opposite end of the forest. Queen Elizabeth National Park is closer though it can be a disappointment especially if you are a safari buff and a veteran of African safaris. You traverse across vast tracts of the park but do not really get to see the cats. It is an elephant lover's delight because you do get to see many of these pachyderms. Vast herds of the Ugandan antelope, Kob can be spotted everywhere. Stay at the Mweya Lodge and go for a boat safari. The water voyage is an ornithologist's delight.
Be prepared to see many locals living among the wild animals in the national park. A national highway also goes through the park. It is probably why wildlife is not as abundantly seen. They co-existent but humans always take predominance. The hippo lake reeks of hippo and human excrement. There is a thriving settlement in the area and I would not advise getting off your jeep. It is filthy and many insects are buzzing around.
If you are lucky to latch on to some researcher, you can spot some lions using their tracking devices. Try www.uganda-carnivores.org. But it feels like cheating and not a natural way to spot animals while on safari.
All in all Uganda is worth going for the gorillas but stop over in Kenya to get your safari strokes.
There are no direct flights to Uganda so one of the best ways is via Nairobi. If you have time, divide your safari experience between the two countries. Check out the Ugandan gorillas before hopping across to Kenya for your ultimate safari experience. If not, Uganda will have to do but then temper your expectation.
We flew into Entebbe and stayed overnight at 2 Friends Beach hotel. Located right by Lake Victoria, it is basic but clean and the food is decent. If you want a more upmarket hotel, some other options could be Lake heights hotel, Laico Lake Victoria hotel or The Boma hotel. However, keep in mind the main reason to be in Uganda is to see the gorillas so airport access was paramount for us. We took a charter flight to Kisoro and then drove to Clouds Lodge. It is a delightful place, and evocative of an untouched Africa with lush greenery, dense clouds within touching distance and mysterious forest all around. The lodge greets customers with typical African hospitality. The smiling faces with sparkling white teeth instantly make you relax and give in to the pampering and nurturing. If possible, go on the mini trek with your hotel guide to prepare you for the next day because no matter how fit you are and how avid a trekker, nothing, absolutely nothing can prepare you for a trek to the gorillas.
Physically it is the most difficult thing I have ever done. The trek starts at Bwindi Impenetrable Forest. One key is to take along as many guides/ porters as possible. Young people can manage with one between three or four, but if you are older, then one per person is a must. Being young and adventurous, our children scrambled along on their own. Despite being the adventurous type myself, I was grateful I could hang on to my porter's hand. Nothing I can say is enough to warn you about the intensity of the climb. One of our group actually needed a palanquin to come down because she twisted her ankle. At times there is no path and at times it is so treacherous, you literally feel your life is in your hands.
But then you see the gorillas and everything is forgiven. However, a word of caution. The sighting of gorilla differs from group to group. Some people get lucky and see the entire family frolicking on the ground and can sit among them and enjoy their shenanigans. But some have to strain to get a glimpse of them in between the foliage. And since the trek down will take time, the actual time spent with the gorillas never feels enough. But you do see them. In the wild. And yes, they are endangered.
The body aches and groans when you return but it is worth every bit of the agony to have spent some time with these magnificent cousins. While returning from Bwindi, do not allow your travel guide to convince you to travel by road. Instead return by charter. There are no restaurants on the way and the food leaves much to be desired. The roads are a torture and you return to Entebbe, exhausted and irritable.
If you care to stay on in Uganda, you can go on safari. Murchison Falls National Park is probably your best bet but it is a long distance from Kampala and Entebbe and as mentioned, the roads in Uganda are not great. Charter flights are a possibility but it is at the opposite end of the forest. Queen Elizabeth National Park is closer though it can be a disappointment especially if you are a safari buff and a veteran of African safaris. You traverse across vast tracts of the park but do not really get to see the cats. It is an elephant lover's delight because you do get to see many of these pachyderms. Vast herds of the Ugandan antelope, Kob can be spotted everywhere. Stay at the Mweya Lodge and go for a boat safari. The water voyage is an ornithologist's delight.
Be prepared to see many locals living among the wild animals in the national park. A national highway also goes through the park. It is probably why wildlife is not as abundantly seen. They co-existent but humans always take predominance. The hippo lake reeks of hippo and human excrement. There is a thriving settlement in the area and I would not advise getting off your jeep. It is filthy and many insects are buzzing around.
If you are lucky to latch on to some researcher, you can spot some lions using their tracking devices. Try www.uganda-carnivores.org. But it feels like cheating and not a natural way to spot animals while on safari.
All in all Uganda is worth going for the gorillas but stop over in Kenya to get your safari strokes.
